Penne Arrabbiata with Toasted Garlic

Bring a large pot of water to a boil and season with 2 tbsp coarse salt.

Thinly slice 5 garlic cloves. Warm ⅓ cup extra-virgin olive oil in a wide skillet over low heat and add the garlic along with 1-2 tsp crushed red chili flakes.

Toast gently for 4-5 minutes, swirling often, until the garlic turns pale gold and perfumes the oil: never let it brown or it will taste bitter.

Stir in 2 tbsp tomato paste and cook 90 seconds until it darkens and clings to the pan.

Add one 28-oz can whole San Marzano tomatoes, crushing them by hand as they go in, along with ½ tsp salt.

Simmer uncovered over medium-low for 15-18 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the sauce thickens and the oil pools ruby-red at the edges.

Meanwhile, cook 400 g penne rigate until 1 minute shy of al dente. Reserve ½ cup pasta water before draining.

Transfer the penne to the sauce with a splash of pasta water. Toss over medium heat for 90 seconds so the pasta finishes cooking and the sauce emulsifies onto each ridge.

Off heat, fold in 3 tbsp chopped flat-leaf parsley and taste for salt and heat.

Serve immediately with a light dusting of Pecorino, if desired, and an extra drizzle of olive oil.