Mapo Tofu with Silken Custard

Gently cube 1.5 lb (680 g) silken tofu into 3/4-inch pieces and slide into a bowl of warm salted water to firm up while you cook.

Toast 1.5 tsp Sichuan peppercorns in a dry wok over medium heat until fragrant, about 1 minute, then grind to a coarse powder.

Heat 3 tbsp vegetable oil in the wok over medium-high heat and brown 6 oz (170 g) ground pork, breaking it up, until crisp at the edges, about 4 minutes.

Reduce to medium, push the pork aside, and add 2 tbsp doubanjiang (spicy broad bean paste) and 1 tbsp fermented black beans; fry 60 seconds until the oil turns brick red.

Stir in 4 minced garlic cloves and 1 tbsp minced ginger, sweating until fragrant, about 20 seconds.

Pour in 1.5 cups chicken stock and 1 tbsp Shaoxing wine, scraping up any fond, and bring to a gentle simmer.

Drain the tofu and slide it into the sauce; simmer 4 minutes without stirring so the cubes stay intact, nudging occasionally with the back of a spoon.

Stir 1.5 tbsp cornstarch with 3 tbsp cold water and drizzle into the sauce in three additions, letting it thicken to a glossy coat between each.

Finish with 1 tsp sesame oil, half the ground peppercorns and 3 chopped scallions folded through.

Transfer to a shallow bowl, dust with the remaining peppercorns, and serve bubbling hot.